Publicación: Hechuras de cuerpo y mente. Modelando el poder en la Corte de los Austrias
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2021
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Atribución-NoComercial-SinDerivadas 4.0 Internacional
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Universidad Nacional de Educación a Distancia (España). Facultad de Geografía e Historia. Departamento de Historia del Arte
Resumen
La mujer siempre tuvo un lugar secundario en la Edad Moderna, sin embargo, si hubo unas mujeres con un destacado papel político y social, aunque sin olvidar su subordinación respecto al hombre, que tuvieron en sus manos el gobierno de uno de los mayores Imperios de la época, esas fueron las de la dinastía Habsburgo. La “Ley Sálica”, que en otros países como Francia o Inglaterra impedía gobernar a una mujer, no fue obstáculo en la España de los Austrias donde la exigencia de gobernar unos extensos territorios hizo necesario delegar funciones en el sexo femenino. Hechuras de cuerpo y mente. Modelando el poder en la Corte de los Austrias pretende mostrar a través del cuadrinomio poder-educación-indumentaria-retrato, la importancia que se les concedió y cómo modelaron, como si de un traje se tratara, una imagen de poder con la que transmitir los ideales de la Monarquía. La educación fue el pilar sobre el que empezar a dar forma a estos agentes activos y que alimentó tanto las personalidades como las apariencias. En el juego de las apariencias, la moda fue uno de los instrumentos utilizados como promoción individual y medio propagandístico, el “vestir a la española” que se difundió al resto de las cortes, independientemente de que cada una de ellas lo adaptara a su estilo nacional. Y, por último, el retrato sirvió como vehículo trasmisor de los valores propios de la corona, de la imagen pública que reforzara la percepción de poder mediante la sobriedad, el decoro, el distanciamiento, la majestad y magnificencia, convirtiéndose en la principal fuente documental que nos permite conocer cómo era la indumentaria y qué códigos escondía: los preceptos de la Contrarreforma.
Women always played a secondary role in the Modern Age. However, there were indeed women with an outstanding political and social role that, without forgetting their subordination to men, had the government of one of the greatest empires of the time in their hands, id est the Habsburg dynasty. The “Salic Law”, which in other countries such as France or England prevented women from ruling, was no obstacle in Habsburg’s Spain, where the need to govern vast territories made it necessary to delegate functions to women. Tailoring the body and mind. Modelling power at the Court of the Austrias aims to show, through the quadrinomial power-education-indumentary-portrait, the importance that was given to them and how they modelled, as if it were a garment, an image of power through which to transmit the ideals of the Monarchy. Education was the pillar on which to begin shaping these active agents and which nurtured both personalities and appearances. In the game of appearances, fashion was one of the instruments used as a means of individual promotion and propaganda, the "Spanish way of dressing", that spread to the rest of the courts, regardless of the fact that each one of them adapted it to their national style. Lastly, the portrait served as a vehicle for transmitting the crown's own values, the public image that reinforced the perception of power through sobriety, decorum, restraint, distance, majesty and magnificence, becoming the main documentary source that allows us to know what clothing was like and what codes it concealed: the precepts of the Counter-Reformation.
Women always played a secondary role in the Modern Age. However, there were indeed women with an outstanding political and social role that, without forgetting their subordination to men, had the government of one of the greatest empires of the time in their hands, id est the Habsburg dynasty. The “Salic Law”, which in other countries such as France or England prevented women from ruling, was no obstacle in Habsburg’s Spain, where the need to govern vast territories made it necessary to delegate functions to women. Tailoring the body and mind. Modelling power at the Court of the Austrias aims to show, through the quadrinomial power-education-indumentary-portrait, the importance that was given to them and how they modelled, as if it were a garment, an image of power through which to transmit the ideals of the Monarchy. Education was the pillar on which to begin shaping these active agents and which nurtured both personalities and appearances. In the game of appearances, fashion was one of the instruments used as a means of individual promotion and propaganda, the "Spanish way of dressing", that spread to the rest of the courts, regardless of the fact that each one of them adapted it to their national style. Lastly, the portrait served as a vehicle for transmitting the crown's own values, the public image that reinforced the perception of power through sobriety, decorum, restraint, distance, majesty and magnificence, becoming the main documentary source that allows us to know what clothing was like and what codes it concealed: the precepts of the Counter-Reformation.
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moral, educación, apariencia, moda, retrato, Leyes Suntuarias, Isabel de Portugal, Juana de Austria, Isabel de Valois, Isabel Clara Eugenia, Catalina Micaela, morals, education, appearance, fashion
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Facultad de Geografía e Historia
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